Not All Moisturizers Are the Same

Not All Moisturizers Are the Same Posted By:
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With summer coming to an end, the temperature will decrease, the humidity will lower, heaters will be turned on, and dry, cracked skin will appear. The term for abnormally dry skin is xerosis; it is seen year-round in the elderly population but can affect all ages and skin types—especially in the fall and winter months. The simplest treatment includes the daily use of a moisturizer. When giving advice to patients on which moisturizer to use, it is important to realize they are not all the same.

Moisturizers are used for protecting, moisturizing, and lubricating the skin; they may also be referred to as emollients. Within the realm of moisturizers are therapeutic moisturizers. These are agents that have been tested in clinical trials and proven to be biocompatible with the skin; they help quell symptoms of dry skin while also helping to maintain the overall integrity of the outer layer of the skin (stratum corneum). A good therapeutic moisturizer should both prevent water loss and encourage water attraction. To accomplish this, it should contain ingredients that reduce transepidermal water loss by occluding the surface and also bring water to the skin via humectancy. A good therapeutic moisturizer should also support endogenous repair mechanisms and help restore the skin to a balanced state.

The key ingredients to look for in a product are Endogenous (or Natural) Moisturizing Factors (NMFs). This is a scientific term for the collection of naturally occurring humectants within the upper layers of the skin that keep it moisturized. NMFs include amino acids, urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactate, and inorganic salts. A decrease in NMFs in skin leads to dehydration, resulting in dryness. Another important ingredient to look for in moisturizers is ceramide-NP (also called ceramide 3); the natural ceramide level is reduced in dry skin, leading to a deficient skin barrier, and making it important to replenish with a good moisturizer.

References
  • Draelos ZD. Modern moisturizer myths, misconceptions, and truths. Cutis. 2013;9:308.
  • Verdier-Sevrain S, Bonte F. Skin hydration: A review on its molecular mechanisms. J Cosmet Dermatology. 2007;6:75.

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Filed under: Dermatology

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